Mae Hong Son, Province
Mae Hong Son, more poetically known as the “City of Three Mists”, is in fact a town of just 6,000 people. It was isolated until a paved road was built in the 1960s, and despite the airport bringing in people from Chiang Mai every day, it still has a remote atmosphere. The lush paddy fields, scenic waterfalls and mountains, and dense forest that surrounds it are home to many Burmese and hill tribes.
The Town
Most people come to Mae Hong Son to explore the surrounding area on treks, and it has more than its fair share of back packer guest-houses and a some group seek luxury resort and hotel. Visit Wat Doi Kong Mu to the west, with memorable views over the town and valley. From the summit you can also see the mountains in Burma to the west.
Long-Neck Women
One of the most disturbing tourist attractions here is the “long-neck” women of the Paduang tribe who have left Myamnar [Burma] to escape its repressive regime. The women wear 30-cm-high brass coils on their necks, increasing them in number from a young age. The coils force the collarbone and ribs down rather than stretching the neck, which is the visual effect. These women are put on show to those who pay the entrance fee to the village- predominantly at Nai Soi, 35km northwest of Mae Hong Son. Many tourists have reported feeling sickened at the sight, and there is some argument that visitors encourage the continuation of a practice that is outlawed in Myanmar as barbaric and would otherwise die out.
Around Mae Hong Son
Pha Bong Hot Springs
Eleven kilometres south of the capital at the Km 256 marker on Rte 108, this public park with hot springs covers 12 sq km. Facilities include bathing rooms and a couple of simple restaurants.
Mae Aw
Mae Aw is a Chinese Kuomintang(KMT) settlement, on of the last true KMT outposts in Thailnad, although it’s not as interesting as Doi Mae Salong or Ban Mai Nong Bua near Doi Ang Khang. There’s no felling of ‘wow an exciting place filled with old renegade fighters’ , just a quiet place with people ho basicaly ignore you, but it’s an interesting trip.
Tham Pla National Park
A trip to Mae Aw could be combined with a visit to the recently established Tham Pla National park centred on the animistic Tham Pla or Fish Cave, a water-filled cavern where hundreds of soro brook carp thrive. These fish grow up to 1m in length. The fish eat vegetables and insects, although the locals believe them to be vegetarian and feed them only fruit and vegetables.
Tham Lod
A large limestone cave with a wide stream running through it. Along with Tham Nam Lang farther west, it’s one of the longest known caves in mainland Southeast Asia. It is possible to hike all the way through the cave (approx. 200 m.) by following the stream or siting on raft along the stream, although it requires some wading back and forth. Apart from the main chamber, there are three side chambers that can be reached by ladders it takes two hours to see the whole thing. Where the stream exits the cave, thousands of bats and swifts leave the cave at dusk.
Mae La-Na
Between Mae Hong Son and Pai, Rte 1095 winds through an area of forests, mountains, streams, Shan and hill-tribe villages and limestone caves. Some of Mae Hong Son’s most beautiful scenery is within a day’s walk of the Shan village of Mae la Na , where overnight accommodation is available. From here you can trek to several nearby Red and Black Lahu villages and to a few caves within a 4km to 8km radius. You can staying overnight in Red Lahu villages along the way.
Coffin Caves
A 900-sq-km area of ‘Pangmapha and adjacent districts may contain more caves than any other region in the world. Over 30 of these limestione caverns are known to contain very old wooden coffins carved from solid tree logs. Up to 6m long, the coffins are typically suspended on wooden scaffolds inside the caves and bound with ceremonial tassels.
Top tip
The ideal time to visit the area is between November and March. Between June and October heavy rains can make travel difficult and nights in the cool season can be very cool indeed.
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